Recipes for a small but still lavish holiday meal.

Bill Buford, a former fiction editor at The New Yorker, is the author of “Among the Thugs,” “Heat,” and “Dirt” –

Between 2008, when I moved with my family to Lyon, and 2013, when we moved back to New York, we celebrated Thanksgiving with a loose confederation of American acquaintances. Many were there because they had fallen in love with a French partner and settled in the city. Some had married people of other nationalities.

For us, the city was an appealing mix of what seemed like everyone from everywhere, and no Thanksgiving ever felt simply American, except, possibly, the one we hosted. 

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